Brisket and Heifers on Cusker Ranch by Destin Joy

After living and ranching for 70 years in Montana, Earlene and Jim Cusker still live on and maintain beautiful Cusker ranch in a valley just outside of Missoula, MT. Not only did they host a wonderful potluck at their home, but we were gifted with their extensive history and knowledge of the region. The current fires in the area, the most challenging of the recent years, offer an honest view of summer in the area, and remain a constant threat to the locals with smoke coming from every direction. As development expands past Missoula and urban sprawl eats up the farmland, it was interesting and inspiring to learn that the Cuskers, along with their neighbors, have set up their ranches in a land conservation project to preserve their land and prevent real estate development on it in the future.

The Cuskers warmly welcomed us and the public into their home for a sustainable potluck, actually it was a feast! organized by their friends on the Missoula Country Community Food and Agriculture Coalition and the Farm to Restaurant Collaborative. Chef Stenberg from Chef’s Collaborative was also involved in coordinating this event and he treated all of us to mouth watering Highland beef brisket that was nothing short of divine. After weeks of brining the beef, he braised it and then finished it on the grill with his secret barbeque sauce! He even made his own sausages on the side! Everyone’s contribution was enjoyed, and oh the pies! Wow, from huckleberry to apple, and homemade ice cream, everyone ate until they could no more! I joyfully frolicked barefoot in their grass after I ate as much brisket and pie as possible, and was tickled pink when I learned the next day that the Cuskers decided to name their heifer after me.

Jim and Earlene are an integral part of the community and have worked hard to preserve local farmland. The Missoula County Community Food and Agriculture Coalition, started in 2003, has been very active in reintroducing Missoula diners with their local food source. The current projects of the Coaltition include Buy Fresh, Buy Local, Farmers Market EBT Program, Farm to School Program, Finding Solutions to Food Insecurity, and the Farmland Protection and Economic Viability of Agriculture.

I also met a woman at the potluck that runs the local Missoula Food Bank, a beautiful store of food that offers emergency relief to the community. With over 8,000 volunteers a year, and a unique program that receives donated food from farmers, markets, stores, and restaurants. The food bank offers a safe space for locals to not only to receive the food they need for their family, but with dignity and choice by offering a selection of fresh breads and produce, in an environment that remains connected to the local community food sources.

Thanks to all for contributing to a beautiful and informative afternoon.

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