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Sustainable Table Issues:  Slaughterhouses and Processing

Printer FriendlyThe drastic expansion of industrial animal production in the US has been accompanied by the rapid consolidation of the meat industry. This industry is now dominated by a handful of huge corporations that produce most of the country’s meat at enormous processing facilities. By 2005, four companies had gained control of processing the majority of the country’s beef and pork  and over half of the broiler chickens.i In 1996, 79 percent of cattle were slaughtered at only 22 plants.ii As a result of this concentration, meat packing companies have become increasingly powerful, while the government bodies that regulate them have done little to keep them in line.

When animals are slaughtered and processed (the meat is cut up and packaged), several dangerous elements come into play. The first is the presence of fecal matter from slaughtered animals, which can contaminate meat with high levels of bacteria such as E. coli.  Other sanitation lapses can also contaminate food, as can other animal diseases like salmonella and campylobacter.  Another food safety hazard is the risk from mad cow disease (a key step to preventing humans from contracting the disease is the proper removal of risky nervous system materials from the beef supply).  And in addition to these food safety risks, the use of hazardous machinery and sharp knives can injure workers when mistakes are made.

Meat production in the US is controlled for a large part by just a handful of companies iii

Four companies control 83% of beef production.

Four companies control 64% of pork production.

Four companies control 56% of broiler chicken production.

Food Safety
Federal health authorities have estimated that foodborne illness sickens 76 million people, causes 325,000 hospitalizations, and kills 5,000 Americans every year.iv Likewise, a number of studies have confirmed the presence of harmful bacteria in meat in the US. After collecting ground beef samples from meat processing plants around the country in 1996, the USDA determined that 7.5% of the beef samples were contaminated with Salmonella, 11.7% were contaminated with Listeria monocytogenes, 30% were contaminated with Staphylococcus Aureus, and 53.3% were contaminated with Clostridium perfringens.v

These unacceptable levels of contamination are caused by the filthy conditions in which conventional food animals are raised, as well as the high speed at which meat is processed. In order to maximize profits, meat processors have continually increased the speed of their production lines. Twenty years ago, meatpacking plants slaughtered about 175 cattle an hour, while today plants can slaughter as many as 400 cattle per hour.vi

In order to assure the safety of the meat supply, processors must make efforts to keep feces from spreading from the animals’ intestines or hides onto the tables and tools for butchering, along with the meat itself. But because the production lines are forced to move so quickly, it is exceedingly difficult to butcher the carcasses with the care necessary to prevent this kind of contamination. The result is meat contaminated with bacteria that cause foodborne illness.

The US continues to experience periodic outbreaks of foodborne illness and large recalls of contaminated meat. In 2002, ConAgra was forced to recall 19 million pounds of beef produced at its Greeley, Colorado processing facility after meat contaminated with E. coli killed a woman and sickened 35 others. By the time the meat was recalled, about 80% of it had already been consumed.vii Out of all foods, ground beef is the leading source of E. coli infections in the US.viii

Meat Inspection
The USDA regulates most meat production and sale in the US, and meat is the only consumer product in the US that comes with a government seal of approval on the package. The majority of meat for commercial sale is produced with government employees present to protect the interests of consumers. But despite its mandate to act in the interests of consumer safety, the USDA has failed to effectively assure the safety of the US meat supply due to weak regulations and lack of control over meat companies.

In 1996, the USDA introduced a new meat inspection program called the Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point (HACCP) system. This system was intended to modernize meat inspection and introduce testing for the bacteria that make people sick.  Unfortunately, HACCP has some major shortcomings.

The HACCP system allows many inspection tasks to be carried out by the meat companies themselves, and actually reduces the involvement of USDA inspectors in the process.ix This is highly problematic, not least because meat companies, (driven only by the desire to profit), are unlikely to slow or stop production in order to deal with a problem or pull potentially contaminated meat from the line. Under HACCP the USDA has actually discouraged its inspectors from stopping production lines when they suspect contamination. In one USDA memo, the agency stated that inspectors would be held responsible for halting production unless there was absolute evidence of product contamination, an unfair burden to put on inspectors charged with the task of evaluating meat that’s speeding down a production line.x

Another important shortcoming of the current inspection system is the USDA’s lack of authority to order product recalls or to issue fines when companies persistently violate food safety rules. Upon discovery of contaminated meat, the USDA cannot demand that a company recall its products and only has the power to consult with a company about how they should handle the situation.xi This slows down the recall process, and allows for unsuspecting consumers to buy and eat contaminated products even though authorities are aware of the contamination.

Similarly, the USDA can not shut down a plant that does not meet sanitation requirements, and as a result there are often lengthy delays between the discovery of unsanitary processing plants and action taken to improve their conditions. In 2002, Public Citizen and the Government Accountability Project discovered that even after repeatedly testing positive for salmonella contamination, several ground beef processing plants were allowed to continue to sell meat for several months before steps were taken to clean up their facilities.xii

Worker Safety
Meat processing facilities are known to pose significant threats to worker safety. In 1996, meat packing workers were listed as having the highest rate of repeat-trauma disorders (like carpal tunnel syndrome, which develops over long periods of time).xiii In 1998, nearly 30% of US meat packing plant workers sustained a work-related injury or illness, making meat packing the most dangerous job in the country in terms of non-fatal injuries.xiv Bureau of Labor Statistics’ data show that in 2004, the rate of illnesses and injuries for workers in “animal slaughtering and processing,” were over twice as high as the national average, and the rate of illnesses alone was over ten times the national average.xv Common ailments among slaughterhouse workers include back problems, torn muscles and pinched nerves, as well as more dramatic injuries such as broken bones, deep cuts and amputated fingers and limbs.xvi

Although meat processing is a difficult and dangerous occupation, precautions can be taken to minimize the threats to worker safety. Among the most important safeguards is to set reasonably-paced production line speeds so that workers are able to process meat without putting themselves or their coworkers at risk of injury. However, in order to maximize profits, meat processing companies continue to maintain unreasonably fast line speeds, thereby jeopardizing the safety of both workers and the food supply.

Although recorded rates of injury and illness among meatpacking workers are remarkably high, it’s likely that the official numbers are still an underestimation of the truth.

Because meatpacking plants are fined when their plants show high injury rates, plant managers and owners have been known to keep false logs that misrepresent the actual occurrence of injury and illness by as much as 1,000 percent. xvii

Time for Change
Given the high incidence of worker injury, the recurrence of sanitary violations at meat processing facilities, and continual outbreaks of food-borne illnesses caused by contaminated meat, it is clear that the U.S. meat processing industry is in dire need of reform. Production line speeds should be slowed to a pace at which workers can perform their duties safely and food safety standards can be guaranteed. Government oversight of food safety standards must also be improved. In order to protect public health, the USDA should conduct more rigorous inspections at meat processing facilities and should have the authority to order recalls of contaminated meat and as well as the power to shut down plants that fail to meet food safety standards.

What You Can Do
There are very few, if any, “sustainable” slaughterhouses in the US. In general, small-scale, independent slaughterhouses tend to provide safer products than most giant meatpacking plants due to the fact that they process much smaller quantities of meat and operate at a slower pace. However, it's still difficult to determine where your meat was actually processed.

Fortunately, there are many sustainable farmers and ranchers throughout the US that care about where their animals are processed. So if you buy directly from a farmer or rancher, he or she will be able to tell you exactly where the meat was processed, and what kind of practices that plant uses.

Visit the Eat Well Guide to find safe and sanitary butchers and retailers near you.

Did You Know?

  • In 1997, 4 companies processed 80 percent of all steers and heifers in the US.xviii
  • Some of the biggest meat processing companies in the US are Tyson, Cargill, Swift & Co., National Beef Packing Co., Smithfield Foods, and Hormel Foods.xix
  • In 1996, the rate of repeated-trauma disorders (or injuries that develop over time) at meat-packing plants was 27 times higher than the national average.xx

For more information

  • “Meatpacking Maverick” – This article describes an independent meatpacker's support for improved food safety inspections after the infamous ConAgra ground beef recall in July 2002.
  • Fast Food Nation – This best-selling book by Eric Schlosser provides a host of information on the meat packing industry’s history and current status. 
  • Modern Meat – This PBS special discusses a range of issues surrounding meat production in the US.
  • The Butcher’s Conscience – This article tells the story of a New York State butcher shop that’s doing it right.
  • Foul Fowl - Food & Water Watch analyzed government testing data and reports which chicken producers failed to meet government salmonella standards.

Sources

  1. Hendrickson, Mary and William Heffernan, “Concentration of Agricultural Markets.” University of Missouri, February 2005.
  2. Mathews, Kenneth H. Jr., William F. Hahn, Kenneth E. Nelson, Lawrence A. Duewer, and Ronald A. Gustafson, “U.S. Beef Industry: Cattle Cycles, Price Spreads, and Packer Concentration: Beefpacker Concentration.” USDA Economic Research Service, April 1999.
  3. Hendrickson, Mary and William Heffernan, “Concentration of Agricultural Markets.” University of Missouri, February 2005.
  4. Mead, Paul S. et al. “Food-Related Illnesses and Death in the United States” CDC 1999.
  5. Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation. New York : Houghton Mifflin Company. 2001, p197.
  6. Ibid, p173.
  7. Scherer, Michael. “Meatpacking Maverick: Montana meatpacker John Munsell's against-the-odds struggle for improved food safety.” Mother Jones, November/December 2003.
  8. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Disease Listing, Escherichia coli O157:H7.” CDC, 2006.
  9. Public Broadcasting Service, “Modern Meat: What is HAACP?” Frontline, accessed October 12, 2006.
  10. Public Citizen. “USDA Tells Inspectors to Give Deference to Meat Companies, Stop Production Lines Only in Certain Circumstances.” Public Citizen, October 31, 2002.
  11. Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation. New York : Houghton Mifflin Company. 2001, p 211.
  12. Public Citizen and Government Accountability Project, “Government’s Ground Beef Testing Program Leaves Consumers Vulnerable to Dangerous Bacteria.” May 23, 2003.
  13. US Department of Labor Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Meat Packing Plants Have the Highest Rate of Repeated-Trauma Disorders.” August, 1999.
  14. Bureau of Labor Statistics , U.S. Department of Labor. “Industries with the Highest Nonfatal Total Cases, Incidence Rates for Injuries and Illnesses, Private Industry, 1998.” U.S. Department of Labor. 1999.
  15. US Department of Labor, “Table 3. Number and rate of nonfatal occupational injuries and illnesses by selected industry, All U.S., private industry, 2004: Animal slaughtering and processing (code 311600).” Bureau of Labor Statistics, Accessed October 13, 2006.
  16. Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation. New York : Houghton Mifflin Company. 2001, p 175.
  17. Ibid, p180.
  18. MacDonald, James M., Michael E. Ollinger, Kenneth E. Nelson, and Charles R. Handy. “ Concentration and Consolidation in Livestock Slaughter.” USDA Economic Research Service, March 1999.
  19. Hendrickson, Mary and William Heffernan, “Concentration of Agricultural Markets.” University of Missouri, February 2005.
  20. US Department of Labor Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Meat Packing Plants Have the Highest Rate of Repeated-Trauma Disorders.” August, 1999.
 
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