Thanksgiving is a time for family and friends to come together and give thanks. It's the most celebrated (and most heavily traveled!) time of the year. Thanksgiving is a time to share, to give, and to be grateful for all that we have.

It's also a time to eat. The centerpiece of most Thanksgiving dinners is a turkey, surrounded by home cooked, delicious vegetables, dressings, condiments and pies.

In the spirit of the holiday, we've brought you a selection of our favorite recipes, as well as some information on the food that you'll be eating. We've also included links to other sites.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!

What's wrong with the Turkey?
The traditional Thanksgiving turkey is different today than it was 50 years ago. Today, 99% of all turkeys raised in the U.S. are the “Broadbreasted White” variety (sometimes also referred to as the “Large White”).

These birds are raised in confinement in extremely crowded conditions on factory farms. They live in unnatural, uncomfortable conditions and are fed a steady diet of grain and supplements like antibiotics, rather than the grubs, bugs and grasses they should eat.

They are produced because of their large, white meaty breast. The breasts of these turkeys are so large that they are unable to reproduce naturally. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, without artificial insemination performed by humans, this variety of bird would become extinct in just one generation.

Industrial turkeys are often injected with saline solution and vegetable oils in an attempt to help improve the taste and texture of the meat. These factory farmed birds tend to be dry and tasteless, so cooks have developed a variety of methods to try to improve the taste. Turkeys are now marinated, brined, deep fried and covered with syrups, spices and herbs.

What You Can Do
If you are tired of eating tasteless holiday meat, you have several options. You can order a heritage turkey, or you can look for organic and/or sustainable birds at butchers, specialty shops and at farmers markets around the country.

Heritage turkeys
There is a movement to reintroduce different varieties of turkeys back to the public. Many of these birds originated here in the United States . Groups like Slow Food USA and the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy are working to re-introduce genetically diversified varieties of animals, including turkeys, that were raised years ago. These animals are often referred to as “heritage” breeds.

Heritage turkeys are raised outdoors, freely roam on pasture, and eat the varied diet nature intended them to eat, unlike most turkeys today that are raised indoors in confinement and are fed grains, fillers and supplements like antibiotics.

Whereas conventional supermarket turkeys can be tasteless and dry, heritage birds raised outdoors are juicy and succulent and taste the way a turkey is supposed to taste. Examples of heritage turkeys include:

Beltsville Small White *
Black
Jersey Buff *
Narragansett *
Slate
Standard Bronze *
White Holland *
White Midget *

(The * means the bird originated in North America.)

A rafter of Heritage Turkeys. Young turkeys are called poults. Photo by Jason Houston.

Not only do heritage turkeys taste better, they are genetically diverse, which is extremely important. The factory farmed Broadbreasted Whites, 99% of all turkeys, are genetically the same, which means an illness could spread through that breed and wipe them out. By raising genetically diverse turkeys, we are ensuring the survival of the species.

Heritage turkeys cost more money, but consumers rave about the great taste and say once you buy one, you can't go back to the tasteless white turkeys found in most supermarkets. The one drawback to buying a bird is that in many cases you must order in advance. Many farmers only grow enough turkeys to cover the demand, so most consumers order their birds months in advance.

Organic and sustainable turkeys
If you aren't ready yet to buy a heritage turkey, or can't find one, your other option is to buy an organic and/or sustainable bird. An organic turkey is certified by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) and must be raised under strict guidelines – no antibiotics, no growth enhancers, only organic feed, and the animals must be given access to outdoors. The animals can be a heritage breed, or the more common Broadbreasted White. (For more information on organic production, visit our Organic page.)

Farmers who raise sustainable turkeys are not overseen by any group or agency, and have no legal guidelines to follow, though many actually exceed the USDA organic standards when raising their birds. Sustainable farmers look to preserve the land, treat their animals and workers humanely, and help support the local community. Sustainable turkeys can be a heritage breed, or can also be the Broadbreasted White. (For more information on raising animals sustainably, visit our piece called “What is Sustainable Agriculture?”)

What's the difference between a heritage, organic and sustainable turkey?
A heritage turkey has a specific set of genetic traits and was raised years ago. Almost all heritage turkeys are near extinction, so efforts are underway to reintroduce them to the public. Even though there aren't legal or set guidelines for heritage animals, to be truly heritage the animal must have a specific set of genetic traits and be raised sustainably. And by the very nature of their breed, it is almost impossible to raise heritage animals any other way than sustainably. The animals must be raised on pasture and be given room to carry out their natural behaviors. But if you are purchasing a heritage animal and want details on how the bird was raised, call and ask the farmer.

Organic and sustainable farmers raise all types of turkeys - some raise heritage breeds, but others raise the Broadbreasted Whites, the type of turkey found on factory farms. The difference is that these animals are treated humanely and are not subjected to the same conditions as on a factory farm.

What should I buy?
Finding the right type of turkey, or any type of meat, can be very confusing. We can't tell you if one is better than the other, but one guideline to remember is that you should know where your bird came from. If the person selling you the turkey is not the farmer, s/he should at least be able to tell you where it came from.

And to find out exactly how your animal was raised, phone and ask the farmer. You can read our "Questions to Ask" section for some suggested questions (and answers!) that you can ask a farmer.

Buy a Local Bird
To find a heritage, organic or sustainable turkey, visit the Eat Well Guide's Advanced Search page and search for heritage, organic and sustainable turkeys in your area. And, remember, the best way to know how your turkey was raised is to ask the farmer. Click here for questions to ask a farmer.

About A Bird
November 2004 New York Times article by Patrick Martins on heritage turkeys and the problems with factory farmed birds.

Heritage Turkeys : a fast growing and profitable niche for adventuresome farmers
Background on heritage turkeys and several farmers that are raising them. (Kristen Corselius, Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy. Written for New Farm, November 2003)

The Hunt for a Truly Grand Turkey, One That Nature Built
November 2001 article by Marion Burros from the New York Times on heritage turkeys, including how they taste.

Room at the Table for Local, Organic and Heritage Foods
Article on sustainable food. Includes recipes for your Thanksgiving meal. (Amy Topel, The Green Guide, November/December 2004)

Organizations
American Livestock Breeds Conservancy
Heritage Foods USA
New England Heritage Breeds Conservancy
Slow Food USA

More on Thanksgiving
The History of Thanksgiving
From the History Channel, a brief history of Thanksgiving, including what might and might not have really been served at the Thanksgiving meal in 1621, which is often credited as the first Thanksgiving feast, though there are differing stories about where Thanksgiving originated from. Also includes audio from a Thanksgiving show on the channel.

The Thanksgiving Ceremony
A book that celebrates Thanksgiving and offers readers the chance to participate in a ceremony designed to be read aloud around the table. It recounts the story of the early settlers and the challenges they, and all subsequent immigrant generations, faced. The ceremony provides roles for guests of all ages and takes about twenty minutes. Families can create and customize their own ceremony, including pieces by Maya Angelou, Irving Berlin, Woodie Guthrie, and Emily Dickinson.

Want to find turkey recipes, articles, and local purveyors? Look here:
Sustainable Table Recipes
Sustainable Table Articles
The Eat Well Guide