Spotlight on Rhubarb: Grandma’s Favorite Pie Plant Gone Wild

Rhubarb is a plant that holds memories of grandma and it was always my grandmother Winkie’s first homemade pie every spring. She had patches of the stalky green growing out behind the big grey house where she would pick it and transform it into the mysterious creation cooling on the windowsill. It was the adult dessert at the table with its twangy flavor and surreal pink hue. Forget the strawberries; she was a purist and there would be no corruption of the unique rhubarb flavor.

But Winkie had a secret – that rhubarb she was cooking up wasn’t so wholesome after all – the leaves are poisonous, filled with large amounts of oxalic acid. Perhaps this element of danger is why today, rhubarb is transcending the age boundary and infiltrating the hip locavore scene. Its tart flavor can tasted in everything from jams to jus and many top chefs are featuring the once dowdy ingredient in various ways throughout their menus.

Over Mother’s Day Weekend, rhubarbs dangerous edge had me captivated but as I could never recreate grandma’s delicious pie, I took an alternative route. After sifting through recipes such as this one for Rhubarb Cobbler and this Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Rhubarb Compote, I finally decided on a cake with unique combination of ingredients, Rhubarb Anise Upside-Down Cake.

The cake was a crowd pleaser, and I think everyone including Winkie, appreciated the departure from the classic pie. The recipe topping called for brown sugar to be caramelized in ½ a stick of butter and while it took me two attempts to get it right, it worked out in the end with a bit of patience and medium level heat. Perhaps the trouble stemmed from the fact that I only used two tablespoons of butter, “health nut” that I am, but it didn’t seem to affect the outcome of the cake. Otherwise, be sure to beat the sugar and butter together well for the batter, as that aids the airiness of the cake. Finally, be sure to enjoy the juxtaposition of danger and grandma together in one baked good.

Season: Rhubarb arrives in the Northern Hemisphere in April and May. It can be difficult to acquire at other times of the year but can be successfully frozen for mid-winter pies.

Buying: Look for long, fleshy stalks with little bruising. Some stalks may be on the greener side but that will not affect the flavor.

A bit of history: Rhubarb originated in China over 5,000 years ago and has been used throughout the centuries for its medicinal purposes as a laxative. It arrived in Maine in the 1820’s and spread throughout the U.S. where it became known as the “pie plant”.

Recipe after the jump!

Rhubarb Anise Upside-Down Cake – Serves 8

Gourmet Magazine, 1999

Ingredients

For topping

• 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
• 1 1/2 pounds trimmed rhubarb

For cake

• 1 teaspoon anise seeds
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
• 2/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup well-shaken buttermilk
• 1/4 cup milk

Preparation:
Make topping:
In a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet melt butter over moderate heat until foam subsides and reduce heat to low. Sprinkle brown sugar evenly onto bottom of skillet and heat, undisturbed, 3 minutes (not all brown sugar will be melted). Remove skillet from heat. Cut enough rhubarb crosswise into 1-inch pieces to measure 3 cups and decoratively arrange, rounded sides down, in one layer over brown sugar.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Make cake:
With a mortar and pestle or in an electric coffee/spice grinder finely grind anise seeds. Into a bowl sift together anise, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl with an electric mixer beat together butter and sugar until light and fluffy and beat in vanilla. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. With mixer on low speed add flour mixture alternately in batches with buttermilk and milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture and beating until just combined (do not overbeat).| Spoon batter over rhubarb in skillet, spreading evenly (be careful not to disturb rhubarb), and bake cake in middle of oven until golden, about 45 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean. Cool cake in skillet on a rack 15 minutes.

Run a thin knife around edge of skillet and invert a plate over skillet. Keeping plate and skillet firmly pressed together, invert cake onto plate. Carefully remove skillet and serve cake warm or at room temperature.