Contributed by Amelia Saltsman
11⁄2 lbs waxy or all-purpose yellow-fleshed potatoes such as Yukon Gold, Russian Banana Fingerling, or French Fingerling
1⁄2 lb morel mushrooms
About 1 lb finger-thick asparagus
1⁄4 lb fiddlehead ferns
Handful of ramps, or 3 tbsp snipped fresh chives
3 tbsp unsalted butter
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup shelled English peas (about 1 pound in the pod)
2 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
1⁄2 cup peeled shelled fava beans (about 1 pound in the pod)
2 to 3 tbsp water
Peel the potatoes if desired, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice, and reserve in a bowl of water. Cut the morels in half lengthwise and clean well (see following directions). Cut larger halves in half again lengthwise. Snap off woody asparagus stems and discard or save for stock. Cut the asparagus crosswise into 1⁄2-inch pieces, reserving tips separately. Drop the fiddleheads into boiling salted water and boil for 2 minutes. A lot of “fern debris” will come loose. Drain the fiddleheads and rinse well in ice water. Trim the ends off and rub away any remaining brown film clinging to the ferns. Clean the ramps, discard the roots, and cut the bulbs and leaves crosswise into thin slices.
In a sauté pan or wide pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the morels, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until tender and any liquid they release evaporates, about 5 minutes. Remove to a large, flat dish. Add 1 tbsp of the butter to the pan and add the asparagus pieces (but not the tips), ramps, fiddleheads, peas, 1 tbsp of the tarragon, and salt and pepper. Sauté until the colors brighten, about 2 minutes. Cover the pan to steam the vegetables until just tender, 2 minutes more. Add the vegetables to the mushrooms and spread them out on the plate so they cool quickly. Add the remaining 1 tbsp butter to the pan, drain the potatoes, and add them to the pan with a little salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook the potatoes until tender, about 10 minutes, adding the 2 tbsp of water and stirring halfway through the cooking time. The dish can be made up to this point 2 hours in advance.
To finish the dish, stir the vegetable-mushroom mixture, fava beans, and raw asparagus tips into the potatoes, and heat gently until the asparagus tips are tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 tbsp tarragon, a squeeze of lemon juice, and salt and pepper if needed.